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SWIMMING POOLS
GENERAL ALGAE PROBLEMS
Why Use Algaecide? (11/4/98)
Algae On Pool Ladder (7/9/98)
What Causes Algae Growth (6/23/98)
Pool Won't Hold Chlorine (5/13/98)
Pool Looks Like "Pea Soup" (5/6/98)
Algae Soup In The Pool (5/1/98)
Light Green Pool Water (4/28/98)
"Gucky" Pool Water (4/17/98)
Preventative Algaecide (3/10/98)
Why Use Algaecide? (11/4/98)
Q:
Is algaecide necessary, or can properly maintained chlorine levels both rid the pool of algae and prevent recurrence?
We have a pool service that uses pure chlorine to treat our water. Our pool water turned green twice this summer and the pool service immediately blamed it on our insufficient filtering and covered pool. I added some algaecide/clarifier combination chemical, and ran the filter for 48 hours and the pool water cleared up. Two weeks later the algae problem came back. I then added some copper algaecide, filtered the for 24 hours, and the pool became as clear as it ever was (and has remained clear ever since).
When I talked to the pool service about this, they claimed that the pool store gave me "a line" in telling me that I "needed copper algaecide because some algae is resistant to chlorine." The pool service maintains that "chlorine is the most powerful algaecide on the planet." Is algaecide really necessary to treat algae problems, or will chlorine and sufficient filtering do the trick?
S.N. - San Jose, CA
A:
This is a really good question and your are the first to ask it. The answer is all in your letter. Your pool turned green with algae due to inadequate levels of chlorine. This could have been due to insufficient chlorine, heavy bather load, poor chemistry, poor circulation, contamination, etc. It could have been cause by any or all of these factors. There is no doubt that the problem was algae. Adding a high dose of chlorine restored the water quality. After the algae bloomed again, and copper algaecide was added, the algae was destroyed. The algaecide helped to kill the algae -- it was the chlorine that decomposed the dead algae and removed its dead presence.
If you can guarantee that there will always be an adequate amount of FREE CHLORINE present in the water, I will concede that algaecides are not necessary. However, I believe that there is no way that this can be guaranteed in the typical pool situation. Therefore, having an algaecide already present in the water will help control algae growth, during those occasions that the chlorine level has temporarily bottomed out.
The algaecide is your insurance policy. It's always there ready to work. Some types of algae respond well to copper algaecide -- mustard algae, for instance, can resist low-normal levels of chlorine, but can be successfully treated with copper algaecide.
The SUN Copper algaecides are very cost effective, when used as directed. It's a lot less expensive to guard against algae growth than it is to rid the pool of algae. Not all types of algae are controlled by copper -- that is one of the reasons that the Swim-Free and SUN product lines contain a variety of formulations.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely,
Alan
Algae On Pool Ladder (7/9/98)
Q:
We have a 4ft above ground pool. We have a aluminum ladder with plastic steps with holes in steps for water to flow through. Last year we had a problem with mold growing in the ladder. Why would mold be growing in the ladder if ladder is in the pool with the chemicals. We are having the same problem this year.
C.W. - Brookhaven, PA
A:
I suspect that what you are describing as mold is algae. The little critters tend to grow first in areas of poor water circulation. The holes in the ladder could fall into that category. Try redirecting the returns to send more water into the area of the ladder.
Clean the ladder and see if the problem recurs. You could also add a more effective algaecide. SUN Algaecide 60 are broad-spectrum products that are effective against a variety of organisms.
I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely,
Alan
What Causes Algae Growth (6/23/98)
Q:
I would like to know exactly what kinds of things can cause algae in my swimming pool so as to try and avoid them from entering my water. For instance can a swim suit that has been in the lake, and then in the pool, cause the pool to turn? What about rocks and other things?
Genny - Clearlake, CA
A:
Algae are singled celled plants that live in water. They are omnipresent and there is virtually nothing you can do to keep them out of your pool.
What you can do is make the conditions of your pool inhospitable to algae, by maintaining proper conditions and shocking at the first sign of visible algae.
These are conditions that have algal growth:
High pH over 7.6
Low FREE CHLORINE levels
High stabilizer levels over 150 PPM
Poor circulation
Short filter cycles
High bather load
Kids doing what kids shouldn't do in a pool
To help minimize algae:
Add chlorine on a regular basis and maintain at 1-2 PPM of FREE CHLORINE
Use algaecide on a regular basis
Maintain proper stabilizer level
Have water tested periodically by a pool professional
Run filter long enough
Follow common sense
The introduction of materials that possibly contain types of algae that are not normally found in pools into a swimming may or may not cause a problem. Hopefully, proper chemistry will minimize any such possibility. Try washing separately in chlorine containing solution.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely,
Alan
Pool Won't Hold Chlorine (5/13/98)
Q:
The pool in the house I'm renting is not holding chlorine. It is a 16 X 32 marcite pool that was built in 1974. The pool service says it has about 15,000 gallons of water. In March, I was having problems with cloudy water so I called a pool service to look at it. I had been putting in a lot of algaecide. He said I was adding too much algaecide and that a greasy substance had built up in the pool (the filter was full of a greasy substance). He said it could be the algaecide or suntan lotion or other things causing this greasy build up. He put in a clarifier and a scum digester. The pool cleared up, but appeared to be stained. He said it wasn't algae, but only looked when the pool was cloudy. I tried a stain treatment, but it didn't work and the stains were getting worse. I called him back and said the stains were worse and I wanted to rid the pool of them. When he came back he said it was algae and poured in 5 gallons of chlorine to super chlorinate it. It cleared somewhat, but the water still had a green hue. When he chlorinated he mentioned a product called yellow treat, so I stopped in the shop to put it in. I used 2 bottles of this granular mixture in 4 different treatments. It still didn't clear the water color and algae still appeared to be growing. I called the service person and told him to put me on pool service because it just wasn't clearing. I was spending a lot on chemicals and hours brushing it, but to no avail. He came last Tuesday and poured 5 gallons of chlorine in the pool. The pool started to look better, but was still a green hue. The next day he put in 7 1/2 gallons in the morning. By the afternoon, it turned a cloudy bright blue. Every day when he checked the chlorine it was low. By Thursday the water was crystal clear and blue. But Thursday, Friday, Saturday he added 5 gallons of chlorine each day. On Sunday evening I checked it and the chlorine level was very low. I added 2 1/2 gallons of chlorine. When he arrived Monday morning there was no chlorine in the pool. The pool looks great, but doesn't hold chlorine. I have noticed black spots on the walls. The yellow algae has cleared up and the walls are blue except for the speckling of these black dots on the etching of the walls.
I've asked him everyday that he was here if it is black algae, he says no. Can you tell if something is black algae just by looking at it? Could a black algae infestation eat a lot of chlorine?
I really don't know where to turn next. He has tested all the different levels of other factor such as ph, alkalinity and cyanuric acid (He added 8 lbs. the first time he shocked). I keep 3 stabilized tablets in the skimmer but have increased to 4.
I don't want to continue to pay for all these chemicals, because it doesn't seem to help hold chlorine even though it has had an enormous amount of chlorine products. Yesterday, he added 2 1/2 gallons at noon. I tested the water at 5 p.m. and found barely no visible free chlorine or chloramines in the pool. He came back today and added 2 1/2 more gallons. If my math is correct it has had 35 gallons of chlorine in a week.
N.B. - Rotonda, FL
A:
You certainly did add a lot of chlorine!!!!!!!!!!
Where do you suppose it went??????????
You obviously had, and may still have, a serious algae problem. Ultimately the chlorine will be called upon to kill and decompose all the algae and organic debris in the water. It seems to me that you never reached the point of having more than enough chlorine in the water to do the task. What you must do is add chlorine until you get a FREE CHLORINE reading of at least 3 PPM that lasts through the night. At that point the water should be greatly improved. Anytime the FREE CHLORINE bottoms out, there is the likelihood that the algae is growing again.
Keep adding the chlorine and testing for FREE CHLORINE at over 3 PPM the next day. The longer it takes to achieve this, the more chlorine will be required.
Run filter continuously, adjust pH and other parameters.
Using a product such as Swim-Free Algalator can help rid the pool of dead algae. Backwash as necessary to lower filter pressure.
Black algae can part of the problem or the stains can be the result of minerals in the water. Put a 3 inch chlorine tablet on the stain. If it's black algae, it can help remove the stain.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely,
Alan
Pool Looks Like "Pea Soup" (5/6/98)
Q:
This is my first season with a new pool (installed in '97 by previous owner). I was excited to remove the cover and fire up the heater for some early season fun, so yesterday I pulled the cover only to discover 36,000 gallons of PEA SOUP! I know the previous owners had the pool professionally closed last fall, so why all the algae and "gunk" floating around? The filter had been acid-washed at the end of last season, so I figured I was ready to go. So, I added shock, DE and turned on the pump. DUMB! Of course within a half an hour the pressure was high and I had to bump and backwash. My sense is that there's so much debris in the water that Ill be "bumping and backwashing'" till the cows come home. What do I do?
D.P. - Kalamazoo, MI
A:
The conditions you are describing sound like the pool wasn't winterized properly or that runoff water entered the pool during the winter.
Your pool needs lots of shock. The longer you take to add the appropriate amount, the more will be ultimately be required.
Label doses are guides and will not work in your situation. I suggest that you add 1 pound per 5000 gallons and test for FREE CHLORINE. Keep adding that dose until you see improvement or the FREE CHLORINE level is at least 3 PPM after least 12 hours. Retest water and add more shock every few hours if the FREE CHLORINE is too low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a local dealer test your water. It is important to have the pH in range for the chlorine to act effectively. The other pool water parameters should be adjusted as required.
There is a light at the end of the tunnel. Good luck.
Sincerely,
Alan
Algae Soup In The Pool (5/1/98)
Q:
I have used a flocking agent in the past and it worked, now it doesn't. Each year I use it, it does less and less. I wish I had remembered the brand name that worked so well the first year. My pool looks like algae soup, and I need a strong FLOCK, What would you recommend, as trying this and that gets costly. I use the recommended amounts for the water, adjust PH and so forth but the green stuff sits there and looks at me.
L.H. - Orange, TX
A:
Sounds like you have taken to farming algae. If your pool has algae growing in it, and that is my impression, adding flock just wouldn't do it. Flock can rid the water of suspended particles --- but it won't stop the algae from growing.
Start shocking the pool with heavy doses and keep adding more shock until you get a FREE CHLORINE reading of at least 3 PPM that lasts through the night. Test water frequently and add additional shock as required. Do it as quickly as possible. Adding a product such as Sun Algaecide 60 will help bring the algae under control. Keep the filter running continuously.
As the water begins to clear, add Sun Tru-Blue. This will help filter out the fine particles - instead of flocking them out. It's less work. Repeat again, if necessary. Clean filter if pressure rises too high.
I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely,
Alan
Light Green Pool Water (4/28/98)
Q:
Our swimming pool is a light green color. We have added chlorine shock and clarifier. We are first time pool owners and opening up the pool for the first time . How long should it take for the water to clear up after the long winter?
J.B. - Bismarck, ND
A:
The green water could be indicative of either the presence of algae or a dissolved mineral condition.
Have water tested for iron and copper. Your local dealer should be able to do the testing and help with the solution.
If you have evidence of growth on the walls or bottom or the presence of slime, you probably have algae. Test your pool for FREE CHLORINE and add shock at the rate of 1 pound per 5000 gallons, until you have a reading of greater that 3 PPM of Free Chlorine that has lasted until the next morning. Retest water frequently and add additional shock as needed. Don't drag it out!!!!!!!!!!!!! Run the filter continuously and backwash only if necessary.
Sun Floc has proved to be a favorite in helping to get rid of the green. Use it as per directions.
I hope this will help solve the problem.
Sincerely,
Alan
"Gucky" Pool Water (4/17/98)
Q:
THIS PAST WEEKEND WE HAD TO PREMATURELY OPEN OUR 18X39 SWIMMING POOL BECAUSE OF STRONG WINDS. LAST WEEK, THE POOL COVER WAS BLOWN OFF ON ONE END OF THE POOL AND THE GUCKY WATER THAT WAS LYING ON THE TOP OF THE COVER MADE ITS WAY INTO THE POOL WATER UNDERNEATH. INITIALLY THE WATER WAS ALGAE GREEN..SO WE SHOCKED IT WITH 5-1LB. BAGS OF SHOCK AND ADDED A GALLON OF ALGAECIDE. TODAY, 2 DAYS LATER IT IS BLUE AND CLOUDY. I TOOK A READING OF THE PH AND ALKALINITY AND THAT WAS HIGH. I ADDED PH DECREASER AND 3 MORE BAGS OF SHOCK. WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO GET IT CLEAR ENOUGH AT LEAST TO SEE THE BOTTOM OF MY POOL?
S.B. - Latrobe, PA
A:
From your description I can't imagine that 5 or even 8 pounds of shock was nearly enough.
Test the pool for FREE CHLORINE and keep adding shock, 3 pounds at day each day, until you get a reading over 2 PPM that lasts overnight. At that point you probably will have added enough. Keep the pH in range.
You don't say what kind of filter you have. Dead algae and organic debris can go right through a sand filter, especially one that was recently backwashed. Try adding some Sun Tru Blue to help improve the filter efficiency and help clear up the water. Run filter continuously until the water clears.
I hope this helps solve the problem.
Sincerely,
Alan
Preventative Algaecide (3/10/98)
Q:
I would like to know what type of algaecide you would use as a preventative program?
T.L. - Anaheim, CA
A:
My preference based on the available technical data would be the SUN Brand of 60% Polymer Algaecide. This type of algaecide is a relatively recent development and is effective against a broad spectrum of micro-organisms. It does not foam or stain masonry surfaces. It does cost more...but I judge it the best product available.
I hope that I have been of help.
Sincerely,
Alan |
