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SWIMMING POOLS
STAIN PROBLEMS
Removing Stains From Liner (8/19/98)
Purple Stains On Pools (8/3/98)
Stubborn, Tan Stain In Pool (6/23/98)
Sildate User w/ Brown Staining (6/23/98)
Pink Stains In Pool (6/23/98)
Brown Stain On Vinyl Pool (6/22/98)
Yellow Staining In Pool (6/8/98)
Dirt Stuck In Plaster Pool (5/8/98)
Leaves And Stains In Pool (5/8/98)
Black Stains On Pool From Copper Sulphate (5/6/98)
Removing Leaves From The Pool (4/27/98)
Black Staining On Vinyl Liner / Sodium Tetraborate (4/16/98)
Black Stains On Pool Surface (4/6/98)
Removing Stains From Liner (8/19/98)
Q:
I have a pool with a brown stain over the entire liner from the water level down. I have used SUN Metal Control, or SUN Super Quest These have had little effect to the copper and iron levels in the water. the ph and alk are very low. What further steps should I take to help remove the stains from the liner, or are they there for good?
J.C. - Carlisle, PA
A:
The liquid mineral control products that you added do not physically remove the metals from the water. What they do is chelate (stable complex) the metals so that they do not precipitate or discolor. Unfortunately, water analysis tests usually still measure the chelated metals.
Ferritabs acts upon metals that are in solution. The stains are no longer in solution or chelated.
Try placing 1/2-1 pound of pH Minus in a sock and drop onto the bottom. Shut filter off. Within 15 minutes you will, hopefully, see a change in the stained area. If the stains respond positively, it will be necessary to drop the pH of the pool well into the acid ranges. This will cause the precipitate to redissolve.
Add some more SUN Super Quest to chelate the redissolved metals. Restore the pH using total alkalinity booster -- makes a recurrence less likely. The sock test is just a simple means of determining if the lowering of the pH will work. Good luck.
Sincerely,
Alan
Purple Stains On Pools (8/3/98)
Q:
I have some pools that are near dairies and when the wind blows, I sometimes get a green pool or two , but that's not my problem. I get a purple ring around some of them at the waterline and on a rock pool I do, it gets on the spill way over the spa to the pool (fake rock). I have had to acid wash this part twice. Could this be clorimides in the water or phosphates. I`m going to try adding phosphate starver next. I'm running out of ideas, can you help this poolman.
J.B. - Upland, CA
A:
It's is not likely to be phosphates or chloramines.
That fact that it can be acid-washed leads me to believe that it is mineral problem. Manganese can form purple compounds. Iron and tannins can form a purple compound.
Why not try adding a mineral treatment after the acid washing? Try using SUN Super Quest.
Good luck.
Sincerely,
Alan
Stubborn, Tan Stain In Pool (6/23/98)
Q:
Three years ago we switched from chlorine to a product called Pristine Blue. I believe it uses as it's sanitizer a copper or copper based compound. We immediately noticed a large irregular shaped dark stain appear in the shallow end of our vinyl-lined inground pool. We switched back to chlorine due in part to this new stain. The stain is tan to brown in color and resists all attempts to eradicate it.
I have found that it will temporarily disappear if I pour granular chlorine directly over the spot (the time frame for this is anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour depending on the darkness of the stain), only to find the stain start to come back in the next day or two.
I am at my wits end trying to eradicate this unsightly blemish. I have tried all kinds of algaecides to no avail. Do I have a mineral problem possibly caused by the pristine blue or an algae growth I am unfamiliar with? Could it be a stain that is coming through the liner from the other side?
D.L. - Orchard Park, NY
A:
There is a possibility that the product caused a stain. However, I would find it unusual for such a stain to be lightened by application of granular chlorine.
A lightening of the area, as you described, could be indicative of a resistant type of algae or microbial growth on the reverse side of the liner.
To further eliminate the possibility of a mineral stain, place 1/2-1 pound of pH Minus in a sock and drop onto the area. Shut off filter. Within 15 minutes you should see improvement, if this is going to work at all. If no improvement is seen, it is likely to be a resistant algae or a reverse side growth.
To treat a resistant algae try the following. Add SUN Algae Preventor and SUN Algaecide 60 At maintenance dosage. Shock pool with enough product to raise the FREE CHLORINE to 10 PPM. Filter continuously. If the stain lightens but does not go away and returns to the same area, there is a real possibility that it is on the reverse side. There is no effective treatment for this problem.
These are informed guesses based on the details supplied. You might start by bringing a water sample into a local pool professional for a complete water analysis.
Good luck.
Sincerely,
Alan
Sildate User w/ Brown Staining (6/23/98)
Q:
I am using Sildate in my pool and I have a huge brown ring around my steps and on the liner also. I have tried everything to remove it including chlorox. It will slightly go away but then returns again. I love Sildate, but I just hate the nasty ring. Could you please give me some advice as to how to remove it or avoid getting it.
J.M. - Gray, GA
A:
It would appear that the stain is due to precipitation of a mineral, possibly silver or iron.
Try direct application of acid. Put 1 pound of pH minus in a sock and drop onto the stain.
You might have the water tested for iron, If present add, SUN Mineral Control to avoid future recurrences.
I hope this will prove helpful.
Sincerely,
Alan
Pink Stains In Pool (6/23/98)
Q:
My pool has developed pink areas that circle the spots on my pool where the marcite has broken down. Is this some form of algae or metal? These pink spots are primarily in the deepest part of the pool.
M.M. - Orlando, FL
A:
Pink is much more likely to be the result of algae and/or bacteria. Shocking and the use of an algaecide such as SUN Algaecide 60 should be helpful.
You could drop a 3" trichlor tablets onto the area and that will work wonders. Move up from spot to spot.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely,
Alan
Brown Stain On Vinyl Pool (6/22/98)
Q:
Dear Alan, Recently I took on an inground swimming pool with a small stain that has increased in area in the deep end floor. The pool is vinyl and the stain is brown in color. Thinking the stain was mineral in nature I have added stain and scale inhibitor. And I have also tried your metal control. I have removed the heater from the system as well as the salt electronator system. The stain has stopped increasing but I have been unable to take out the stain. Nothing else has been added to pool since the appearance of the stain. Ph is 7.6 chl levels are low. I do not believe this is an algae stain. Any help at this point would surely be welcome.
M.Z. - Knoxville, TN
A:
There are three likely causes of the stain:
Algae
Mineral stain
Microorganisms growing on the reverse side of the liner.
I'll take your word for it that it is not algae. So let's continue.
Mineral stains can form in certain areas for a variety of reasons. Try placing 1/2-1 pound of pH minus in an old sock. Shut off filter and drop onto the stain. A strongly acidic solution will form and should quickly remove most types of mineral stains. The stain and scale inhibitor previously added probably failed to act on the precipitated minerals. If the stain shows improvement within 15 minutes, you should be able to repeat again as needed. Recurrence should not be a problem because of the added stain and scale inhibitor.
If the stain does not respond to the direct application of acid, it is likely to be caused by algae or growth on the reverse side. There is no effective treatment for growth on the reverse side of the bottom. Shocking the pool and adding algaecide and controlling pH should be tried as an algae treatment. If the stain lightens and returns, it could be indicative of a problem on the reverse side.
Good luck.
Sincerely,
Alan
Yellow Staining In Pool (6/8/98)
Q:
My pool is 3 years old and when we opened it this spring we noticed the fiberglass steps were stained yellow. I've tried scrubbing the stains with vinyl liner cleaner without success. Someone suggested scrubbing the stains with vitamin C tablets wrapped in a nylon stocking. To my surprise it works but requires a lot of work and the vitamin C tablets are expensive. My question is, are you aware of a cleaning product that will remove these stains without hurting the pool water chemistry?
S.B. - Brownsburg, IN
A:
The yellow stain is most likely caused by iron in the water. The vitamin C is acting as a reducing acid. You could also use oxalic acid.
You might get similar results by applying pH Minus, in a similar manner (wear gloves).
Make sure that you add something to the water to prevent future recurrences. A product such as SUN Mineral Control will complex with the iron in the water.
I hope this information helps.
Sincerely,
Alan
Dirt Stuck In Plaster Pool (5/8/98)
Q:
Over the winter my pump broke and it was off for about 2 months. The pool got kind of dirty during this time. Now that it is fixed I am trying to clean it and it appears that some of the dirt is stuck in the plaster. I can't brush it off or clean it off. Help. I want my nice sparkling pool back.
M.G. - Tempe, AZ
A:
Is the dirt due to dead algae or is good old dirt?????????
High levels of chlorine will help remove staining due to algae. To help deal with imbedded dirt you might consider lowering the pH to about 6. The acid conditions will help dissolve the outermost part of the underwater surfaces and will hopefully help remove the dirt. Brush walls frequently to speed things along.
IF YOU ARE GOING TO KEEP THE CHLORINE LEVEL HIGH AND LOWER THE pH, DO NOT USE THE POOL. THIS TYPE OF CONDITION WILL CAUSE THE CHLORINE TO BECOME TOO AGGRESSIVE FOR COMFORT.
Hopefully after a few days things will look better. Return pH to 7.2-7.6, vacuum, filter and backwash to waste before resuming normal operation. Make sure chlorine level is down to a comfortable range.
I hope this will help. If not, I would suggest acid washing.
Sincerely,
Alan
Leaves And Stains In Pool (5/8/98)
Q:
I recently moved in to a house that has an inground pool in the back yard. It has not been used for a couple of seasons and was full of leaves and debris. I drained the pool and you would not believe the stains. Can you recommend a product that I can use so I can keep the scrubbing to a minimum?
C.B. - Rockville, MD
A:
It would have been helpful to know if your pool is vinyl. If the pool is vinyl do not allow chlorine to remain in prolonged contact with the liner.
Most of the stains are probably due to algae and tannins from all the leaves that were in the pool. Chlorine will decompose the algae and tannins. Keep a high level of FREE CHLORINE, run the filter continuously, and vacuum out as much debris as possible. Because all these debris will be consuming chlorine, test the water at least daily and keep adding shock to keep the FREE CHLORINE level up. Keep pH 7.2-7.6.
Some of the stains could be due to iron or other minerals. You might consider adding a product such as SUN Mineral Control. Adding an algaecide will help speed up the cleanup.
Your local pool professional should be able to help chart a course of action.
I hope that this information will prove helpful. Good luck.
Sincerely,
Alan
Black Stains On Pool From Copper Sulphate (5/6/98)
Q:
We have a concrete pool finished with crystal finish. Last year we had a very bad algae growth and had to empty the pool and spray with copper sulfate and 100% chlorine, the copper sulfate turned all the cracks black, we now have a very clear fresh water pool with lots of obvious black cracks. What do we need to do?
A.M. - Tortola, British Virgin Islands
A:
I have never heard of such a method to get rid of algae. What was wrong with adding shock to the water?????????
Copper sulfate is not suitable for swimming pool use. It does just what you described to masonry surfaces. If you wanted to use copper as an algaecide, there are many chelated copper algaecides available that could have been added to the water. To deal with your problem, try acid washing.
I really don't hold out much hope because the copper sulfate has formed insoluble compounds deep within the cracks.
Sorry I can't be more optimistic.
Sincerely,
Alan
Removing Leaves From The Pool (4/27/98)
Q:
I have a leaf problem with my pool. We have leaves that sunk to the bottom and have been there all winter. My cousin told me about a chemical that could bring them to the surface, he said it was a white powder but he doesn't remember what it is. Is there such a chemical? If so what is it?
V.M. - Amlin, OH
A:
If there is a chemical that will bring leaves to the surface, it is news to me.
If your pool is vinyl-lined be careful to use only soluble or quick-dissolving chlorine. Don't drop slow dissolving chlorine and allow to contact the bottom. You could bleach the liner.
So far as getting rid of the leaves; Adding high levels of chlorine will hasten the decomposition of the leaves and the removal of any stains caused by tannins. Vacuum and backwash to help get rid of the loose material. Test chlorine daily and keep adding shock as necessary. Make sure pH is OK, it can help the chlorine work better.
Good luck and next year try a winter cover and a winterizing chemical kit.
Sincerely,
Alan
Black Staining On Vinyl Liner / Sodium Tetraborate (4/16/98)
Q:
My question is, what is sodium - tetra - borate? Could you please e-mail me a description of the chemical & what would be the main use for it?
The reason I ask, is I have a customer that has some odd black staining on their vinyl liner. The customer was told to introduce the chemical in their water to help clear the stain. I'm skeptical though because I'm not sure (nor do I think the person who gave the advice is) whether we are dealing with organic or inorganic staining. Customer feels stain is coming from under liner. Could be, but I still think chemicals can solve this problem w/out draining & pulling liner. Any suggestions?
D.P. - Elmer, NJ
A:
Sodium Tetraborate is available in some pool stores under the name "Proteam Supreme". It is used to reduce chlorine consumption.
If the stains are inorganic (iron etc) they should respond to the direct application of acid. Put some pH Minus in an old sock and drop onto a stained area with the filter off. After 10-15 minutes a noticeable should be visible. If that is the case the entire pool should be acidified and then treated with Sun Mineral Control. If the sock treatment does not dissolve the stain, the most likely conclusion is that it is a Black Algae and should be treated as such. There is a possibility that the stain is caused by a micro-organism on the reverse side of the liner. Adding chemicals to the pool might lighten the area temporarily but will not remove the stains.
I hope that this information will give you some insight into the causes.
Sincerely,
Alan
Black Stains On Pool Surface (4/6/98)
Q:
My Florida pool is a 27 year old marcite pool measuring 16x32. It was not properly cared for by the previous owner and developed black stains. I've tried chemicals and pressure washing without luck. I realize the pool is overdue to be remarcited, but the surface is not cracked/broken. The surface is obviously thinner than before, but not severely so. I plan to have the pool resurfaced in 2 years. A friend from NC who has managed pools saw it yesterday and said I should just paint the pool. Your thoughts?
B.K. - Stuart, FL
A:
In Florida 27 years is ancient !!!
The black stains could be algae or mineral stains. Put some pH Minus in an old sock and drop unto a stain area with the filter off. If the stain is removed, the problem is minerals. Place a 3" chlorine tablet on another stain. If after remaining in place overnight, the stain is removed, the problem was black algae.
I really don't have any experience with painted pools. They do seem to be less prone to mineral staining and have less effects on pool chemistry. I had my pool resurfaced with Diamond-Brite last year and I think it looks better than marcite.
Before deciding try and see the different finishes.
I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely,
Alan |
